Jenny Roberts
‘A Celebration of Spode Blue Italian’
Commissioned by Portmeirion Pottery to celebrate the 200th anniversary of Josiah Spode’s iconic ‘Blue Italian’ design, this piece draws inspiration from the serene beauty of the Italian countryside, interpreted through the delicate shades of blue that define the original pattern.
The design was first silk-printed, then meticulously hand-embroidered to enhance and emphasise its intricate details. I chose a circular shape for the hat to encapsulate the timeless elegance of the 'Blue Italian' artwork, allowing it to be admired from every angle as it sits gracefully to the side of the head.
To add an element of drama, handmade silk flowers were placed under the brim—offering a hidden flourish that complements the refined outer design.
The most significant challenge lay in aligning the crown and brim patterns seamlessly, requiring the creation of numerous prototypes to perfect the design match. The result is a celebratory piece that bridges heritage craftsmanship with contemporary millinery artistry.
Not for sale.
“Quintessentially English and synonymous with Great British design, Spode’s iconic Blue Italian pattern was first created in 1816 during the Industrial Revolution. At a time when the British nobility and landed gentry were embarking on Grand Tours across Europe, Spode observed a shift in aesthetic tastes—from the prevailing Oriental influences to a growing appreciation for classical European landscapes. In response, Josiah Spode II designed Blue Italian: a striking fusion of an idyllic Italianate scene framed within a traditional chinoiserie border.
My brief was to celebrate this historic design through the lens of millinery—creating a statement piece that embodied impact, elegance, and a deep respect for the original craftsmanship. I approached the project by drawing on traditional and contemporary millinery techniques that echo the meticulous artistry of the Spode pattern.
Using silk printing, hand embroidery, bespoke flower-making, and innovative material manipulation, I constructed a piece that is as much a tribute to British heritage as it is a showcase of modern design skill. The process brought together multiple elements of my millinery practice, and I was thrilled with the final result—a piece that speaks to the legacy of Spode while offering a fresh interpretation through fashion.”
Materials and Techniques
The foundation of this design features a separate crown and brim, with the crown set through the brim for a distinctive silhouette. This structure was then carefully draped in a printed silk fabric, enhancing its elegance and fluidity. Once the form was established, the design was beautifully embroidered by my colleague Marie Halewood, who thoughtfully selected a variety of bead shapes and styles to enrich the piece. To add visual impact from beneath the hat, hand-tooled flowers were crafted and positioned on the underside.
Millinery Heritage
“I began my millinery journey over 20 years ago, after working in the fashion industry since graduating. What started as a hobby quickly turned into a lifelong passion — the moment I made my first hat, I was hooked, and I haven’t stopped since.
I’m endlessly inspired by the age-old techniques passed down to me, and how these traditions continue to evolve with new equipment, materials, and ideas. There’s a rich legacy in hat-making that I deeply respect, and it brings me great joy to carry it forward.
One of the most rewarding aspects of my work is sharing the skills I’ve learned with future generations. Through teaching, I hope to ensure the craft continues to grow and transform — seen through new eyes, shaped by fresh creativity, and sustained by innovation. ”
“It’s funny to think that a few years after I started making hats, a friend of my late grandmother gave my mother an old article about my maternal great-grandmother — who, it turns out, also made hats. The article begins:
“However interesting their objects, women’s organisations have one thing in common – their members’ fondness for pretty hats. Go to any annual lunch and you’ll find yourself in a sea of tulle, flower petals, and draped straw.”
It goes on to describe my great-grandmother demonstrating millinery at a local women’s group. It seems that hat-making runs in the family — a creative thread passed down through generations. I feel very proud that the love of creating millinery has been passed down through many generations.”
About Jenny Roberts
With over 20 years of experience in fashion styling and millinery, Jenny blends artistry with the latest trends to create headwear that enhances and flatters her clients. Based in Harrogate, North Yorkshire, she offers bespoke design services, and a curated hat hire collection.
Jenny’s designs have been featured on the front pages of The Times, The Telegraph, and Vogue’s Top Ascot Hats, as well as in Marie Claire and more. Recognized by Tatler as “The Best Milliner in Yorkshire,” her work is sought after by distinguished clients, TV presenters, and royalty attending prestigious events like Royal Ascot.
Beyond designing, Jenny is passionate about sharing her expertise. She has taught at London Hat Week, The British Millinery Association, and The American Institute of Millinery. As a dedicated member of the millinery community, she serves on the Events Committee for The British Hat Guild and is honoured to be an Ambassador for the British Millinery Association.