Dillon Wallwork

‘Renaissance'

Large angled saucer brim with asymmetric tapered crown of biscuit coloured silk shantung trimmed with blocked edge and hat band of contrasting raspberry silk, overlaying strips of hand rolled orange cotton organdie. 

I have taken my inspiration from fashion during the renaissance period where sleeves of men's doublets were 'slashed' to expose the under garment often of a contrasting colour and fabric.

The renaissance period was a new beginning or 'rebirth' of the arts and culture - similar to the 'renaissance ' of millinery and the use of traditional millinery techniques we are witnessing at present.

Price: £1900.

““I was fortunate to have been trained when traditional model millinery methods and techniques were still commonplace.
I continue to use these techniques in my work today, but applying them to contemporary designs.
This hat on show illustrates many of the techniques used in the model millinery atelier. These methods are part of our heritage of millinery and it is important that they continue to be used.”

Materials and Techniques

Main body of the hat is Silk shantung and cotton organdie.

 Foundation fabrics - Sparterie, sprung steel wire, french cotton covered wire, flat domette, iron-on interfacing, cotton tarlatan, french canvas/collar canvas, petersham.

Techniques used - all of which are traditional model millinery, a fabric hat with sparterie for the foundation. 

 The crown is constructed using a 'tip and sideband' method and joined with 'skin joins' giving a smooth finish.

 The brim with flat domette underneath the silk enabling a smooth surface. Topstitched under brim for strength and helping the silk to adhere to the shape.

 A decorative edge of blocked sparterie covered with silk shantung and then overlaid with strips of hand rolled cotton organdie.

Millinery Heritage

“My first job was as a junior milliner at Mitzi Lorenz, where I learnt from Madame Bryson - who had previously worked for Christian Dior in 1947. A year later I then moved to Philip Somerville Ltd. again as a junior milliner, I then witnessed all manner of model millinery blocking felts, paribuntal straws, draping turbans, working with fur, flowers and the construction of sparterie blocks, so I was very fortunate to learn so many different skills and techniques that were passed on to me from the senior milliners, often each having their own expertise in one method of model millinery.
Since the beginning of my millinery career in the 1980s I have seen so many changes in the hat trade, the availability of fabrics and materials as companies close and the number of trained milliners decline. I am passionate about keeping the skills I learnt alive as I consider myself very fortunate to be one of few milliners in business today that have the experience and knowledge to pass on, this country’s heritage of hat making and hat wearing is an important part of our culture and needs to survive.”

About Dillon Wallwork

Having completed a course in fashion and design, graduating in 1981.

In 1984 Dillon went to London where he first worked for Mitzi Lorenz and then Philip Somerville Ltd. as a junior milliner in the model workroom. After several years he became personal assistant to Mr Somerville and eventually Design Director. During which time Dillon dealt with both wholesale clients and private clients, among them Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth ll and Diana, Princess of Wales.

 Philip somerville Ltd ceased trading in 2007 and Dillon began designing under his own name 'Dillon Wallwork Bespoke Hats' continuing to deal with private clients and collaborating with designers. 

With over 40 years in the millinery trade Dillon also has become a sought after millinery tutor, teaching in France, Sweden, Ireland and Spain and on the internet via Zoom.