“While studying Fashion at university, I dedicated my dissertation to researching the fur trade, aiming to determine whether fur had a place in my creative practice. The outcome was clear: I chose not to use fur, and I could argue my stance with a well-researched and principled argument. This decision has remained integral to my values, and Bee Smith Millinery has proudly been fur-free from the very beginning.
However, it wasn’t until I attended a lecture hosted by Collective Fashion Justice and the British Fashion Council - highlighting the realities of feathers in fashion - that I realised the need to explore alternative options.
Feathers have long been cherished in millinery for their ability to add volume, texture, and elegant detail. The Plumage Prohibition Act of 1921 marked a turning point, curbing the use of exotic and endangered bird feathers and reducing what was once dubbed “Murderous Millinery.” Yet today, feathers remain prevalent - most commonly from ostrich, peacock, and pheasant. I had always assumed ostrich feathers were ethically sourced, either through natural moulting or non-lethal plucking, but I’ve come to suspect the reality is far more complex.
Determined to reimagine the softness and drama of an ostrich-brimmed hat without using feathers, I designed a piece that relied on ruffled tulle for volume and incorporated a faux-feather fabric from Ecopel™. The base was crafted from re-blocked vintage hats, buckram, and finished with layers of blush-toned tulle. This is the beginning of an ongoing exploration into perfecting my faux-feather technique. It’s not quite there yet—but like all good craft, it takes time, experimentation, and practice.”
There are some excellent resources available from Collective Fashion Justice
Fashion Beyond Feathers, a guide for designers from Collective Fashion Justice
At Bee Smith Millinery, every hat and headpiece is handmade at our Kingston studio. We place sustainability at the core of our process, choosing materials responsibly, sourcing locally within the UK whenever possible, and strictly avoiding the use of fur. We are committed to reducing the environmental impact of our products – we will not always get this right but it is a work in progress.
We encourage our customers to invest in pieces they love, with the hope that they will treasure each design for years to come. Additionally, we offer a hat hire collection, as well as repair and restyle services.